hydrating or wetting walls prior to color coat, stucco wall texture techniques
Hello everyone, today Jason and I are explaining the importance of hydrating walls prior to applying a color coat cementitious finish.
FYI, I like to hydrate a base coat at least 3 to 5 times within that 2 to 3 week cure time.
The idea is to fill it so full of water that it EXPANDS, then when it shrinks or drys it will naturally hairline .
If you hydrate your new base coat at least 3 times this will happen, 5 times will make sure it does.
Why is this so important?
If you don’t hydrate (or hose down with water) the new stucco base coat, before you apply a finish coat the water needed to apply the color finish coat will hydrate it or expand it (base coat) and when the color is dry, this new color finish will also hairline naturally with the base coat stucco.
Or say a person that never hydrates new walls then applies a color finish, then 1 week and or to 5 months goes by and old mother nature rains on these same walls for a week straight, what will happen?
The new walls with stucco will finally expand (with the rain water) then dry, and more than likely hairline as this process is natural with Portland based stucco products, thus, a pretty new color finish also hairlines with the stucco base coat.
I hear this this comment often, “these guys did a great job, but now it rained and it looks awful with cracks, why”
I usually say they did not hydrate properly. BTW, this happens to the best of us sometimes.
Lastly in this video, I am showing the steps I take prior to an application of applying a color finish, we were not able to show the application of this finish as it was getting dark and we had to hustle.
Therefor Jason could not film anymore as I need him to spread fast so I could float these walls.
It’s not possible for him to spread mud and film at the same time, unfortunately.
Kirk Giordano Plastering Inc.
http://www.StuccoPlastering.com
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering tips
hydrating or wetting walls prior to color coat, properly curing stucco
Plaster geek, stucco nerd, need a life stucco dude
Thanks for watching and have a fantastic day!
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properly curing the stucco coat
properly curing the stucco coat
Kirk,
Do you have to wet the scratch and brown before colour coat even if you have a good key and soupy mud? I think you would probably barf if you see what goes on in this hick town.
I think it dryout to fast. It should harden not dry out. The scratch is like a sponge.
Interesting vid! I've been having to do the same to my scratch coats prior to top coat (or browning). Do you find that you need to hydrate CMU or brick quite a bit prior to skimming or scratch also? I know for a fact that our red brick sucks the crap out of the scratch, and needs a good drink prior to any cement coat.
Also, if your browning or top coat (cement only) starts to go off a bit before you have a chance to hit it with your rubber float or sponge float (say on a big ass elevation) do you bring it back to life with a light spraying with the hose prior to floating? By the way I don't mean colour coats in this instance obviously, just on the topic of hydration. Cheers Kirk!
@Llyr Jones Hi Llyr, I hydrate or hose down with water most all walls, If I am skimming brick, concrete, or cinder blocks it's necessary, the heat of the day dictates how much water and how often.
Your next question about hard rubber floating a big wall and it starts to harden or turn light in color which means the same thing, that this wall is setting or curing.
Often when this happens no amount of water will bring it back to workable floating. The water will just flow down the wall, and make it stronger under normal conditions.
Keep in mind there are many different cement materials, all are similar, and most have this in common.
When it's set, it's set.
Best wishes,
Kirk giordano
@Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips you're right – there is a point of no return, but I didn't mean white, not that far ahead ha – that would be tragic. I just meant if you're in the hot sun, and you're really hustling, do you sometimes use the hose to wet the wall if you're finding that you're starting to use a bit too much 'muscle rather than skill'? Cheers.
Hey Llyr, I'm laughing as you're walking a fine line that takes some serious time in, yes, I have done this, but if it does not work for you, don't curse me for saying I have done this sometimes under just the right conditions.
Best wishes, and excellent question.
kirk giordano plastering advanced tip just for you, Llyr
@Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips it's quite alright Kirk, I have rendered 80% of the house, and the other day was exceptionally warm, and I found myself hustling a bit trying to rub it up with my poly float (rubber float), I just wondered if you've ever done it. Seems like even the pros get caught out sometimes! I guess I shouldve wetted the scratch a bit more to give me that extra 20mins! I'll have to share some pics once I'm done.
No worries, Llyr, even the best get beat up occasionally, thats what keeps us sharp.
We all need reminders that hey, stay awake and really alert as cement plaster waits for no man.
Kirk Giordano
It is so enjoyable to see you explain all the small details that make big difference in stucco work. Can you cover any additives to cement you use, besides accelerants, that make a difference in stucco?
One of videos mentions that hydration is more important than adding fibers but if one wants to have as durable stucco as possible what are the options, in addition to extensive hydration of base and scratch coats.
@William Peck Hi William, thank you, one of the strongest stucco systems is the BMI 690 with fibers. If you use portland cement plaster you can add fibers for really only a few bucks more, there fiberglass fibers will help some, but if a home is going to settle no amount of fibers in the cement plaster is going to stop a 100 ton home from settling.
All new homes settle!
Back in the day I would buy common cement plater and add a few shovels of lime to make it more spreadable, however these days I buy premium cement plaster, it is a mixture of common and plastic, the best of both worlds, Common is strong but a drag to apply unless you have time in, the plastic makes it apply so much better as it has the lime in it too.
When I purchase Silos from BMI for example I will have them add fibers as it cost less then 100 dollars for a large silo, (28 tons) so cost makes it a piece of mind choice that my customers like.
Cheers!
kirk Giordano
On this and other videos you mention "Suction" often as being key to proper adhesion of a stucco coat, and I have indeed found that to be essential for application of the coat. Long term however, there is a chemical bond between the cement in the stucco and the underlying coat or cmu block when it all dries, correct?
Hi Kirk! Great video as always, however I was a little bit confused on the frequency of hydrating the Brown coat. Now it is my understanding to wait several weeks for the Brown coat to cure properly till the color coat goes on, Is this correct? If so, during this time, how often should one hydrate the Brown coat? Once a day for 15 minutes? Twice a week? Of course I'm sure weather plays a factor but just wanted to get a general idea.
I know in your other videos you always tell the homeowners to hydrate the Brown coat walls, but I wasn't sure of the frequency till it's ready for color coating.
Cheers to you and your family. Happy Holidays!
Evening Dan Park, I had to watch this video to remember what I said, i should have applied the texture to give a proper ending, oh well.
Your question, I like to hydrate a base coat at least 3 to 5 times within that 2 to 3 week cure time,
The idea is to fill it so full of water that it EXPANDS, then when it shrinks it will naturally hairlines.
If you do it at least 3 times this will happen, 5 time will make sure it does,
Why is this so important?
If you don't hydrate the wall then the rain will, meaning you come apply a finish coat without hydrating properly, your color finish water will hydrate it or expand it and when the color is dry, this new color finish will hairline naturally with the basecoat.
Or say a person that never hydrates new walls then applies a color finish, then 1 week to 5 months goes by and old mother nature rains on these same walls for a week straight, what will happen?
The new walls with stucco will finally expand then dry, and more than likely hairline as this process is natural with portland based stucco products, thus, a pretty new color finish hairlines with the basecoat.
I hear this this comment often, "these guys did a great job, but now it rained and it looks awful with cracks, why"
I usually say they did not hydrate properly. BTW, this happens to the best of us sometimes.
Best wishes,
Kirk giordano
It's still surprise me just how some people do not know about Noboremed Secrets (do a google search) despite the fact that lots of people cures their skin disease naturally using it. Thanks to my personal friend who told me about this. I have eliminated my skin disease for good by using healthy ways.
Howdy Mate, what does this topic have to do with stucco?
As far as health remedies, I personally recommend herbs and tree extracts, the only secrets to this is most folks have no clue or could care less about the benefits.
Best wishes,
Kirk and Jason’s plastering repair video’s
Tip of the day
You can put just a little bit of food coloring in the white bonding agent so you can see if you missed a spot or not
Howdy Michele, thanks for the tip.
Live long and Plaster
Teaching the world how to plaster one Video at a time.
We just had our t1-11 siding stocco done. I wet it down a few times and it's been cool and hot in Florida. Is color coat better than paint? We need a paint job on the whole house. I know color coats are more expensive. Do you recommend a paint over new stucco?
Howdy Nik, if you apply a color coat, this is a maintenance free finish or integrated color finish, this means you will never have to paint your home again.
With painting, every 10 to 15 years paint is necessary for maintenance.
Peace, love, and happiness to all.
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Just out of curiosity would putting food colouring in a non tinted bonding agent to give it a colour have any effect on it? If not can't people just get any bonding agent and put some food coloring in it just to give them a colour to let them know they haven't missed any spots?
Evening Kevin, I would think this would work. Even the white glue is sometimes noticeable as it has a sheen. The complete plastering encyclopedia with more than 800 videos by the plastering messengers of Youtube. Bringing peace, love, and harmony back to the world of plastering.
How long should one coat of stucco, 1/2" thick cure before painting?
Evening Allie, the rules say 28 days. However, I have stuccoed some projects, where the builder painted the next day. I'm not telling you to paint soon, just telling of things I see in the trade. The complete plastering encyclopedia with more than 800 videos by the plastering messengers of Youtube. Bringing peace, love, and harmony back to the world of plastering.
How often should you wet your finish smooth stucco coat after application?
Kirk! So I am understanding what you are saying here, the water creates a suction that pulls the finish in. Well, let me update you on my job, and ask a question about the color coat- I have the scratch and brown coats on the front of my office, I tried to recruit help to make a nice even brown, and I tried to achieve a Santa Monica smooth finish. Well, I gained a HUGE respect for your skill and years of practice, and went with a sponge trowel finish, which fixed a lot of inconsistencies, and muted some of the low areas. Since there are so many different texture options, there seems to be no real 'wrong' way, unless you are trying to get something specific. So now, when I wet the wall, it looks a little splotchy as it is drying, but ok when dry. My wall does not look as even as the one you are showing here, and has splotchiness when wet. I am ok with that, and over all, once I used the sponge trowel, it looked much better. There are some divets where it wasn't as thick, but it runs across the wall like that, and actually adds to the character of the texture- I call it- 'The-American-Garage-sort-of-smooth-ish texture'! Anyway, people like it. Now, I noticed that Imasco said NOT to wet the wall or the finish would be splotchy in color, in direct contrast to your method here- is that because of their product limitations, or because your brown is so consistent that you will get that even suction for the entire wall? I am concerned that I may not get an even suction. My plan is to put a white finish on- not pure white, but a slightly grey off-white. Again, a little inconsistency doesn't bother me, so long at it is interesting and not funny looking. The final finish will be a sponge trowel sanded finish (bring out the aggregate!) So, should I follow this method? Also, I am noticing 3 different color coat options- the traditional cementitious finish, the acrylic, and just plain painting. Your videos seem to indicate that the acrylic is superior, but harder to apply. Painting is not all that attractive because it will have to be redone periodically. Would the traditional finish be the best for me, and will the color be even enough that when dry, will it pick up the character of my current sanded finish? Thanks for your advice in advance. -Steve from The American Garage
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. Thanks Kirk! the supply store only had the acrylic stucco finish, so that is what I went with.Overall, it was good, but I can see where you have to just put it on and leave it. It does not like to be worked as much, unlike the stucco cement. Thanks again for all your excellent advice and videos.
Hi Kirk, clutch question for you: Will a cementitious wall cause trim boards to rot when it gets wet since it will always be absorbing and evaporating water?