Counter flashing with a drip or weep screed over a Z flashing
Howdy folks, if you wish to fully understand Counter flashing with a drip or weep screed over a Z flashing Please watch this video in its entirety, as I explain in the two metal flashing and there uses in complete detail.
I actually get many questions just like this about similar uses of a Z flashing which is used primarily to protect an area, then installing a weep or drip screed to begin the traditional plastering system.
Kirk Giordano Plastering Inc.
http://www.StuccoPlastering.com
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Counter flashing with a drip or weep screed over a Z flashing
stucco nerd, plaster geek, need a life stucco dude
Thanks for watching and have great day!
Counter flashing with a drip or weep screed over a Z flashing,
Counter flashing a foundation with a Z flashing & plaster screed
Confused, The sill and sheating is not protected from exposed gap on the bottom since there is no flashing closing the gap. Almost all the bottom sheating 1/2 inch is exposed to air. Potentially, it could exposed to wind driven water, or sprinkle , etc, rigth ?
Confused, The sill and sheating is not protected from exposed gap on the bottom since there is no flashing closing the gap. Almost all the bottom sheating 1/2 inch is exposed to air. Potentially, it could exposed to wind driven water, or sprinkle , etc, rigth ?
+Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips
Yes, the sheathing is protected from dripping water moving down from stucco with a Z-flash. Great detail, it is extremely helpful. Thanks again Kirk Giodano Plastering courtesy.
However, the sheathing is not flash with the foundation. Therefore, it is 0.5" out of the footing. Once the z-flash and weed screed is install. You still have bottom 0.5" sheathing bottom which is expose to the air. Can you recommend what should be done to protect it?
Let me explain what I mean 0.5"sheathing bottom. We have sill and sheating that is sit outside the footing about 0.5 ". Therefore, directly behind the waterproof paper , we have exposed sheathing bottom that is 0.5" wide. What is recommended to protect it ? Should I another flashing or sheet metal. Therefore, I can provent insects through the exposed gap.
Hello Nicholas,the flashing I show here are just a couple, there are flashing for every purpose, seek the right flashing for your situation, plus you can alway seal the bottoms to the wall with a quality polyurethane caulking if you wish to seal from even the smallest bug.
I have never done this sealing the flashing, However you may have a great reason for doing so.
Best wishes,
Kirk giordano
+Kirk & Jason Giordanos DIY plastering and stucco tips
Great tips and thanks. I am not an expert, but I seem to think with 0.5" exposed air gap on bottom seem could be potential long term problem. Yes, I was thinking to caulk the bottom to the wall. But worry what if water vapor accidentally past through the waterproof paper behind stucco, then water stop at the sill and can't get out since it is caulk. Then , I think about stucco the bottom 0.5" gap.
Perhaps I am over thinking. Anyway, big thanks. I might go with caulking or an L flashing.
Hello Nicholas, I too have a tendency to over think or think in the line of caution, I feel it's a great quality.
FYI, I could have placed a fat bead of Polyurethane Caulking on the concrete ledge also and pressed the bottom flange of the Z onto it too.
But I felt this was not necessary, I suggest this to you should you have a situation I am not aware of like living next to a swamp or any type of standing water where termite's might be a problem.
Best wishes,
kirk Giordano
@Nicholas khoo You are thinking about "through wall flashing". There's many kinds, membrane types like Grace or liquid applied membranes like Prosoco fast flash. This being a remodel situation the rest of the house is not air sealed so air sealing a small portion of the house is probably not necessary.
if you could answer a question for me I just paid a contractor a large sum for approximately 40 square asphault shingle roof. it included reflashing an existing chimney. the company I chose is licensed out of KY and has an A+ BBB rating…one of the reasons I chose them even though I knew the price was high I felt I would get a job done correctly. unfortunately I was wrong. after the first big rain my chimney bricks where wet on the outside where they come through the roof of my back enclosed porch…needless to say I was very disappointed…it's still doing it. he used a product called 'through the roof' to seal all the flashing…step, counter and apron…I have been in contact with a rep of 'through the roof' and they advised it should not have been used for this. the contractor is still working with me but he is just going to keep squirting that stuff on it. can you give me any advice and tell me what he should have used to seal the counterflashing. a particular brand…what do you use? and any advice on how to deal with this guy to get him to do the job correctly that I paid for. thanks 4 any input…
Howdy PREECHER dude, You mention (he kept quirting that stuff on) most of the products that suggest you can spray on from a Hudson sprayer or a spray bottle to seal say stucco or concrete take many coats, around 5 to really seal a porous finish, this is for stucco or concrete only. I am not aware of any products you can spay on to seal metal flashings? To water proof flashing metal counter flashing is used or any of the quality polyurethane caulking su ch as Sikaflex which is a construction sealant that really does last at least 20 years minimum if applied properly. keep on them to do the right thing. Best wishes, and have a good new year. Kirk giordano Plastering
he used 'though the roof' and by squirting I meant using a chaulk gun…if you think it is comparable to sikafllex I guess he is doing it what is considered the right way as he seems to think. all I know is it is leaking it wasn't leaking at all…only 1 time due to ice dam what ins. clowns that sf sent out called it….some snow stayed up there a while on the flat area…believe me it will never happen again while i'm here…I just had moved in and it came that big snow in Jan…I wanted wip especially under the low slope and to prevent any water entry from above…thanks for any info…just if u think through the roof is comparable to sikaflex.. it's great you have vids to help people do things right 4 themselves.. thank you again
Howdy again preacher dude, I have never heard of(through the roof caulking), so I went online to read a bit more.It appears this company also sells another caulking that I have recommended quite a bit and that is Mor-flexx. As I have never used(through the roof caulking) I am not in any position to be judge or jury to give an opinion of this caulking, sorry. Besides most products I refer, I have used for at least 10 years, as it really does take this amount of time to form an accurate opinion sometimes. Best wishes, Kirk giordano Plastering
I have a Question. I have a 12 inch hangover on my concrete slab coming from my outer wall how do I seal it I know "Z" flashing will not work unless I cover the entire 12 inches of slab.
Howdy Mate, without seeing the issue, I would suggest an L flashing with a slope, caulk the inner corner first with a polyurethane caulking then install the flashing as you feel best for your needs to divert the rainwater, many ways to do this also. Best wishes,Kirk and Jason’s plastering repair video’s
thanks
My sons house someone laid a concrete patio up passed the foundation covering all these weep screens. Is there a fix for that? Thx.
Evening Tim, not one that I know of that's easy, A grinder would work but it creats so much dust.
Live long and Plaster
Giordano’s plaster teaching videos with images
Love the instruction; makes sense, for even the complete novice
Evening Jack Dude, thank you Live long and Plaster Giordano’s plaster teaching videos with images
Kirk, the foundation for my shed is protruding about 3 inches past the bottom plate (1/2in. osb board is 1/4 in above foundation). I can't find any Z flashing sheets that size. I was thinking of sealing the bottom plate and OSB with polyurethane sealant, then placing a 3in x 3in bonderized L flashing, plus using more polyurethane to glue the metal to the cement along its entire length. Finally, I can counter the L flashing with the weep screed. I probably have to cut the L flashing at its length so that there is no sharp metal protruding past the foundation (I have kids, I see it as unsafe). Is this 50+ years water proof? How would you do it?
Good afternoon Web Man Dude, I'd get on the phone and have the proper Z flashing ordered, instead of 8 to 10 bucks you'll pay 15 bucks per piece for a Z flashing that fits, I'd try a try a roofing supply store first before your idea. Live long and plaster Sharing the plastering knowledge
Ok. I started calling places. one place in Riverside charges $20 per sheet to bend and cut if I provide the sheets myself. Any business place you recommend?
If all else fails i call the local sheet metal guy and he will make you some just tell him how you need it