Counter flashing chimney flashings
We first removed the existing caulking that was set AGAINST the bricks, and instead used a skill saw with a diamond blade to cut a groove into the grout 3/4 quarter of an inch, after which we INSERTED the new L flashing in this cut groove or grout line.. So my New Flashing is not set Against the brick but Instead inserted into the grout a half inch, THEN CAULKED.
It’s a better system but I don’t believe I explained this well judging from other comments. Live and learn, after 580 more video’s I am better at explaining the details.
Howdy everyone, in this video we show you how to properly counter flash a chimney area. Now, the issue with this chimney wasn’t that it currently leaked. The previous guys did an ok job of making it water tight, however there is a superior system. The flashing they used was only set against the bricks and caulked; it was not inset into the system.
For me it seems a common sense issue that a flashing simply laid against a brick surface and caulked well, will not last as long as one embedded over and on top of the brick by at least ½ to ¾ inch then sealed properly. However folks are welcome to do as they choose
It’s definitely technical stuff.
Please also see our web site at http://www.StuccoPlastering.com
Kirk Giordano Plastering Inc.
Thanks for watching and have a great day!
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering network and forum
stucco lath tutorials, lath and plaster network, Waterproofing stucco
Counter flash chimney flashings ,Counter flashing chimney flashings, chimney flashing
@1lucyann Not sure if that's good or bad. But you have a groovy evening!
kirk Giordano plastering
Sorry partner your wrong. Why grind out mortar to replace it with the same thing you said was sure to leak. ??????
@dekonfrost7 Hey Dekon, we grind out the grout to inset the metal on top of the bricks as opposed to just a grout surface. Grout, bricks, stucco and concrete, are porous, the metal flashing is waterproof.
I explain code standards in the lath and plastering industry, you are entitled to your own choice of methods.
Have a great evening.
kirk Giordano plastering
its much better to build a kriket that chimny is too wide if u r a profesional u know that
Hey Rodriquez, I am a stucco contractor not a general contractor. I was asked to install a counter flashing over the current flashing, not to build a chimney cricket. A cricket would have been built when the roof was built, usually. Flashings are part of my trade not building chimney crickets.
Have a groovy evening,
Kirk Giordano Plastering
Hello Rewd, I disagree, How about instead of criticizing another fella’s work you stop hiding behind scary pictures, and explain in your own words what should be done? Not who to call. If you can’t simply explain it (say for example, to your own grandma) you don’t know enough about it.
Have a groovy day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
Thanks for taking the time to show your work; it's very helpful to me. I may be calling to get an estimate for some stucco repairs.
I can't understand why some people choose to post negative comments, what are they thinking. If they have another idea then why don't they put out the effort to share it? It's not easy to make videos and then take the time to upload, so again thanks.
Hi Jovan, Thanks for the positive comment. At of all of our videos (over 200) this one has the most disagreements as folks don’t understand exactly what is going on. A bead of caulking is simply not as good as the flange imbedded in the grout by ½ inch with caulking. It’s definitely technical stuff.
Have a great evening.
Kirk Giordano plastering
Hey mike, fair enough!
For me it seems a common sense issue that a flashing simply laid against a brick surface and caulked well, will not last as long as one embedded over and on top of the brick by at least ½ to ¾ inch then sealed properly. I do realize that folks are welcome to do as they choose, just as folks are welcome to question my methods.
It's definitely technical stuff.
Thank you folks for watching, and have a groovy day!
Kirk Giordano Plastering
your fired!
Hello Willow, are you a licensed professional in roofing, construction, or sheet metal fabrication with at least a minimum of 4 years as a journeyman in that trade? If not, no worries.
It’s easy to not understand the intricacy in details of (how or why) in this type of chimney flashing detail.
Have a groovy morning.
Kirk Giordano Plastering
I dont understand why you removed the caulk….. put in another flashing and then just sealed that with caulk as well, surely your caulk will fail in time as well?. Am I missing something?
Thanks
Must be
Hello Kristian, Great question!
The previous fella place the metal on the face of the brick. We scored a line in the grout 1/2 inch deep then installed the L flashing in this groove before caulking it. This method last longer than simply laying the metal of the surface. Our last 2 videos show professional quality roofers doing the exact same thing. I pointed this out in those videos with a shout out of whom these roofing contractor were by name.
Have a groovy day!
Kirk Giordano Plastering
if the flange was embedded into the graut 1/2 in with caulking why are the bricks necessary to hold the flashing on the side? the meatal should hold very snug into your flange before you cover it with caulking…
Hi Jordan, excellent question, the top flange was one piece that wrapped the both side I notched out the bottom so the flange was continuous this meant the sides had a tendency to want to flex back to its original shape. I used the bricks as they were available to hold the Sikaflex adhesive caulking until the next day to give the adhesive had a chance to dry, thus hold the flashing in place.
Thanks for the question, and have a groovy New Year.
Kirk Giordano plastering
As for neg. comments below,,,I've done this work for 35yr. The job was done correctly. Just b/c it was done for a few $hundred, instead of costing the homeowner a few$thousand to tear back shingling and reflash, doesn't mean the same results were not achieved. Even the choice of "white" polyurethane,as it will not absorb as much heat, and will extend the life of the caulk.If viewable from street,I may sometimes use black,gray or tan.Very efficient way to get the job corrected Kirk,well done.
Howdy gcrady, you definitely have quality time in, I appreciate the educated and professional opinion. I’ll bet you get called to arbitrate issues?
Sika Flex, also sells the caulking in many colors in the last few years, (I should have used dark brown colored caulking, but this was discussed with the home owner who was fine with the white color) I also tell folks we can do a fast set mortar if desired.
Have a groovy day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
L flashing is called counter flashing and the flashingthats wraped around the chimney is called base flashing
Howdy GCTIPS, thanks for the tip.
Thanks for watching and have a great day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
Hey Kurtis, no joke, Folks can do this whatever way they choose. This was my way back then. If I can change anything today I would choose the colors they now have, and instead of white have used the color brown.
Best wishes and have a great day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
Howdy Dragonfist, you been reading the game of thorns series too, to come up with that tile, if so it's working.
I agree one hundred percent. When I see any of my son’s or guys not wearing masks, I piss moan and whine about cancer and health issues too, however sometimes we use what is available. Thanks for the tip.
Best wishes with your projects and have a good evening.
Kirk Giordano Plastering
Amazing how some here attempt to criticize when you are doing us a favor. And to attempt to ask why on some questions when if anyone had ever done any amount of this work they would know why. Right down to the color of the caulk when they in all their infinite wisdom should know different caulks last longer than others or some may stick better to masonry. It is amazing that some are so brave as to show they are fools.
Thank you for this video.
Howdy smiley492, I am pleased to hear your wisdom. Thank you, it's refreshing.
Out of the 350 videos my sons and I have done this one get the most criticism as it tough to understand the difference in laying a flashing on top rather than to embed it in the grout. Or perhaps I didn’t explain it properly.
Thank you for the reply and have a great day,
Kirk Giordano plastering
Hi check out easyflash ltd . com you might find it interesting.
Hi Easy flash, you would certainly benefit if you explained what you’re doing while doing it and so on.
Best wishes,
Thanks for watching and have a great day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
Thanks StuccoPlastering. A couple questions. What kind of blade are you using on the saw? How are you maintaining a straight line? The groove is 3/4 inch deep and the L is 3/4 inch. Does that mean the horizontal part of the L is 1.5 inches? Thanks again.
Howdy Peoria Os, my Son Jason used a Dewalt diamond saw blade. The straight line takes practice, strength and not caring if you get full of dust. (Plus glasses and a dust mask) the grove is a bit deeper than 3/4 so it fits snugly in it. Keep in mind you can also grout, in the flashing grove and that caulking now comes in all colors these days.
Thanks for watching and have a great day!
Kirk Giordano plastering
First of all, there's no cricket back there. What you're seeing there is the absence of a cricket(or saddle), and considering that the chimney is wider than 48", it ought to have one. Secondly, I see no reason not to remove the original counterflashing and fabricate and install a whole new one, instead of that chincy little thing you have there. Thirdly, I would never rely on any kind of adhesive or caulk to hold my nice new flashing in place. It should be mechanically fastened using the masonry anchor of choice(I use a colored-to-match expanding plastic z-max type fastener every 12-18 inches fastened as close to the reglet as possible, about one inch down). I also take special care not to put any fastener into both the base flashing and the counterflashing, as these two units will move separately from one another, causing buckling and distortion in the metal over the years due to seismic(and thermal) expansion and contraction. If you come across a chimney where the base flashing is also the counterflashing(a mistake that should be remedied)then simply detach it from the chimney carefully, being sure to leave whats on the roof and up the chimney totally intact, removing only the flange at the top and the useless giant bead of caulking. One this is done, a new counterflashing assembly can be installed on top of the base flashing you carefully left in there by using a method similar to the one described here.
Please tell us why caulk on top of the chimney failed and caulk at your score line will not? Trading one problem for another of the same. Shouldn't you have at least gone up at least 2 more courses, or maybe you're not in a snow zone? BTW, how did you repair the chimney top? Another line of that super-duper caulk I bet.
all the info is well documented, an organic material (polyurethane) will eventually revert to its natural state, thus changing properties and deteriorating over time. An inorganic material (silicone) will not….polyurethane has a lifespan of 5 to 10 years,silicone is 20 years,cement is hundreds even thousands of years,it's been tested and proven,look at the ones done with mason,,strength it has to begin with doesn't last it cracks in the sun just like you said, i can pull chimney flashing out of caulk but have to cut it out of cement.
oh btw they make special lead pieces to nail into that slot to hold your flashing in while you cement it not bricks leaned against it.
Evening Joe Falasco, you and I are going off track, lets go back to the beginning.
The homeowner asked me if I could remove the existing flashing and cut a groove in the grout and install an L flashing? I said I could and did this for a cost of six hundred dollars.
The homeowner did not ask me if I could perp this chimney properly, apply an inch of BMI’s 690 cement plaster which is water resistant and crack proof, then allow a cure time, come back with a primer then a hand apply 1/8 inch Elastomeric Acrylic Finish Coat, this system would last at least 100 years.
As a rule I give a cost of what I am asked to do.
Yes, you're right about stucco lasting forever, however I know this as I have seen at least 10 garages standing with no more lath, wire or wood framing, only the stucco holding it in place.
However this again is not the point, the point could be that I simply did not explain this video well. That’s possibly why I am so much better these days because of feedback for you caring folks.
best wishes
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
oh well you give the homeowner what they want and the price does determine the job they get,little jobs like that you're practically doing them a favor which is good for your reputation,i usually get the inspectors to make the first guy do it right,i have had to even use the state inspectors cause this one city inspector believed that just leaving a funnel around the chimney i could just lath over it cause he said tucking into the joints just can't be done,even the homeowner knew i was right,here it's the stucco guy who gets fined for going over improper flashing and the chimney is the most important part of a roof.,an easier way to cut that groove is lay a 2by 4 on the roof for a guide which is 3 1/2 in. and your skill saw is 2 1/2 in to the blade which is the right size for a 6 in riglet
Morning Joe Falasco, I hear you brother, good tip about the 2 by 4, hopefully I won't be doing this nasty, dusty and dangerous saw cutting again.
You're right about calling the guys back who installed it wrong, it's actually a favor to them although that may not recognize this favor at first.
I was just telling a contractor the same thing, he asked if I could break our concrete where the guys didn't raise the flashing high enough, so they pored and finished concrete on the wood mud sill, I said no, call those fellas back so in the future they learn not to cover the wood framing with concrete, it's a favor to them with future projects to learn how to install flashings properly.
best wishes,
Kirk & Jason Giordano’s DIY plastering and stucco instructional videos and forum
thanks again kirk, when i follow your advice i never go wrong…usually, lol…thx so much…
Hi slavano, well now I know if I get yelled at by you in the future my advice failed.
Actually slavano, if I do a project incorrectly, old kirk has to go back and repair it at no cost, so keep on following this advice.
It's tried and true, I rarely try and reinvent the wheel.
Best wishes,
Kirk & Jason Giordano's DIY plaster and stucco network
Agree with Astromyxin and tubby. This is a band-aid fix at best. In the Midwest, or anywhere it rains for that matter, code requires through-flashing and weeps on any brick veneer (like a chimney). Brick is porous and will allow water through to the underlying substrate. It's not waterproof.
Morning STEVEN DAVIS, fair enough, like most folks you just read a couple lines below and made a decision, if you would have spent a bit more time before responding you would have gotten the truth. Typical.
Best wishes, and have a fantastic new year!
Kirk giordano plastering Tips
Kirk his point was valid, in places like england the chimney has a flashing at the base if the chimney the segregates all the bricks if the exterior if the chimney, up around the flue so any water that goes into the bricks coalesces on said flashing and wepps out. Through weep holes left in the vertical joint where the flashin sits kn the bricks below it. You live in california where this work is the standard. So you and steven are correct. Im a master roofer and i dont see fault with your work.
It is my understanding that a simple 90 degree bend to insert into your reglet (channel) is not enough. All documentation I found states you are supposed to bend the top of the counter flashing into a "V" shape, then cut a 1" deep by 1/2" wide reglet into your masonry. Inside this you first blow it clean then install a bead of caulking, then push in your V notch, then secure this with lead wedges tapped into the notch, then over all that another bead of caulking. If this is incorrect, please site your reference. ("this is how Ive been doing it for x years" isn't a reference IMO. I'm trying to find national code, university extension grade guidance). I'm getting ready to do my flashing on my roof and am in the research phase. Thanks.
the "V" with the wedges sounds like a nice touch.
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. actually the v bend on the counter flashing thats inserted into the reglet serves two purposes, one it keeps water from seeping past the edge of the flashing (not that it would likely happen anyway once caulked) , and two it acts like a spring and locks the flashing into the reglet once inserted. Kind of like a chinese handcuff, once inserted the harder you pull out the tighter it gets. Not saying the way you did it is wrong or will not last, just explaining what the acute v bend does in the reglet groove.
There is no national code, but you are correct on the procedure. Reglet, acute bend on counter flashing, and a good elastomeric caulk to seal.
Good afternoon Mitch, thank for the tip, there are many ways to skin a cat. peace, love, and harmony to all Sound Plastering tips for the DIY’er, apprentice plasterer or the Plastering experts
Can this flashing also done on a stucco wall connect to a patio?
Good morning Va, yes , however attaching a ledger board is often easier and preferred.
best wishes,
Sound advice for plastering issues from your favorite stucco geek
No good .wont
Last.poor.job.
Good afternoon Ricardo, do you see me criticizing your inability to use the English language?
Listen, I’m a pretty decent person, so if I’m being an asshole, you have to ask yourself, why?
peace, love, and harmony to all
Sound Plastering tips for the DIY’er, apprentice plasterer or the Plastering experts
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. beautiful job I have been roofing since 87.you are spot on nice work
@Kirk Giordano plastering Inc. thanks for all you do I really appreciate you
I think this looks like a solid job, the only thing I would’ve done differently was aesthetics, I would have tried to find a better color matched caulking.